My visit to Purana Quila (Old Fort) during the COVID-19 pandemic turned out to be one of my most peaceful and enlightening historical experiences in Delhi. Often overshadowed by more famous monuments like Red Fort and Humayun’s Tomb, this ancient fortress revealed its true magnificence when I could explore it without the usual crowds. Let me take you through this serene journey into one of Delhi’s most underrated historical treasures.
Purana Quila stands as one of Delhi’s most ancient forts, built on the site believed to be Indraprastha, the legendary capital of the Pandavas from the Mahabharata. This massive fortress represents a unique blend of Mughal and pre-Mughal architecture, showcasing the evolution of Delhi’s architectural heritage.
Built by: Sher Shah Suri (completed the work started by Humayun)
- Period: 16th century (1533-1545)
- Location: Near Delhi Zoo, Mathura Road
- Area: Nearly 2 kilometers in circuit
- Significance: Built on ancient Indraprastha site
- Architecture: Indo-Islamic style with Hindu influences
The COVID-19 Experience: A Blessing in Disguise
Peaceful Exploration
The pandemic restrictions transformed Purana Quila into a meditative space where I could truly connect with history:
Unique Advantages:
- Solitary walks through ancient gateways
- Uninterrupted photography of architectural details
- Time for contemplation at historical sites
- Better appreciation of the fort’s massive scale
- Peaceful boat rides on the adjacent lake
Enhanced Safety Protocols
The Archaeological Survey of India had implemented comprehensive safety measures:
COVID-19 Safety Measures:
- Mandatory online booking (no counter tickets)
- Temperature screening at entry
- Mask requirement throughout the visit
- Social distancing markers and guidelines
- Sanitization stations at key points
- Limited daily visitors for crowd control
Architectural Marvels I Explored
1. The Three Magnificent Gates
Purana Quila has three imposing gateways, each showcasing unique architectural elements:
Bara Darwaza (Main Gate)
The Bara Darwaza serves as the main entrance, displaying impressive Indo-Islamic architecture.
What I Observed:
- Massive red sandstone construction
- Intricate geometric patterns
- Strategic defensive features
- Beautiful proportions and symmetry
Humayun Darwaza (South Gate)
Named after Emperor Humayun, this gateway shows refined Mughal architectural elements.
Architectural Details:
- Blend of Islamic pointed arches
- Hindu chhatris and brackets
- Beautiful stone carving work
- Strategic positioning for defense
Talaqi Darwaza (Forbidden Gate)
The Talaqi Darwaza (forbidden gateway) combines Islamic and Hindu architectural styles uniquely.
Special Features:
- Restricted access during normal times
- Unique architectural fusion
- Historical significance in fort’s defense system
- Beautiful craftsmanship despite limited access
2. Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque
The Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque inside the fort is a perfect example of pre-Mughal architectural style.
Architectural Brilliance:
- Single dome with pointed arches
- Five doorways for entry
- Red sandstone and white marble combination
- Exquisite geometric patterns throughout
COVID-19 Exploration Benefits:
- Peaceful prayers without crowds
- Clear visibility of architectural details
- Better acoustics appreciation
- Time for spiritual reflection
3. Sher Mandal
The Sher Mandal is a double-storied octagonal tower with significant historical importance.
Historical Significance:
- Library of Humayun: Used as emperor’s private library
- Tragic history: Where Humayun fell to his death in 1556
- Architectural style: Red sandstone with Islamic influences
- Strategic position: Offered panoramic views of surrounding areas
My Experience:
The reduced crowds allowed me to climb the tower safely and appreciate the panoramic views of Delhi that Humayun once enjoyed while reading his books.
4. Archaeological Museum
The Purana Quila Archaeological Museum houses fascinating excavations from the site.
Museum Highlights:
COVID-19 Adapted Experience:
- Reduced capacity: More intimate viewing experience
- Enhanced cleaning: Better maintained exhibits
- Detailed exploration: Time to read all information panels
- Safe viewing: Proper spacing between visitors
Key Exhibits:
- Painted Grey Ware: Dating back to 1000 BC
- Terracotta figurines: From various historical periods
- Coins and seals: Representing different dynasties
- Pottery fragments: Showing continuous habitation
The Boating Experience
Lake Activities During Pandemic
The lake adjacent to Purana Quila offered a unique recreational experience during COVID-19:
Boating Adaptations:
- Reduced capacity: Boats with limited passengers
- Sanitization protocols: Cleaned boats between rides
- Social distancing: Maintained on the lake
- Better experience: Less crowded, more peaceful
What Made It Special:
- Serene atmosphere: Peaceful waters with fort views
- Wildlife spotting: Various birds and aquatic life
- Photography opportunities: Unique angles of the fort
- Relaxation time: Perfect for unwinding after fort exploration
Pricing and Timings:
- Boating cost: ₹30-50 per person
- Duration: 30-45 minutes
- Timings: 10 AM – 5 PM (weather permitting)
- Safety equipment: Life jackets provided and sanitized
Sound and Light Show
Modified Evening Entertainment
The famous Sound and Light Show had been adapted for pandemic safety:
Show Adaptations:
- Reduced seating capacity: Better spacing between attendees
- Enhanced audio system: Clear narration even with distancing
- Sanitized seating: Cleaning between shows
- Modified timings: Earlier shows to avoid large gatherings
Show Details:
- Languages: Hindi and English (alternate days)
- Duration: 60 minutes
- Cost: ₹80 for adults, ₹30 for children
- Timings: 7:00 PM (winter), 7:30 PM (summer)
My Experience:
The show beautifully narrated Delhi’s history, from ancient Indraprastha to modern times, with the fort serving as a spectacular backdrop. The reduced crowd made it more immersive and enjoyable.
Archaeological Significance
Layers of History
The pandemic visit gave me time to truly appreciate Purana Quila’s archaeological importance:
Historical Layers:
- Indraprastha Period: Mahabharata era (mythological)
- Mauryan Period: 3rd century BC artifacts found
- Gupta Period: 4th-6th century AD settlements
- Medieval Period: Various sultanate influences
- Mughal Period: Humayun and Sher Shah Suri constructions
Excavation Findings:
- Painted Grey Ware: Proving ancient settlements
- Terracotta artifacts: Showing continuous habitation
- Coin collections: From various historical periods
- Structural remains: Multiple construction phases
Photography During COVID-19
Unprecedented Opportunities
The empty fort provided exceptional photography conditions:
Photography Advantages:
- Clean frames: Monuments without crowds
- Golden hour magic: Peaceful sunrise and sunset shots
- Architectural details: Close-up shots of intricate work
- Wide-angle perspectives: Capturing the fort’s grandeur
- Reflection shots: Beautiful lake reflections of the fort
Technical Tips I Applied:
- Early morning visits: Best light and complete solitude
- Wide-angle lenses: Capturing the massive scale
- Detail shots: Focusing on architectural elements
- Symmetry composition: Emphasizing Islamic geometric designs
- Sunset photography: Silhouettes against evening sky
Wildlife and Nature
Green Oasis in Urban Delhi
Purana Quila’s surroundings offered unexpected natural beauty:
Flora and Fauna:
- Ancient trees: Some centuries old, providing natural shade
- Bird species: Peacocks, parrots, and various migratory birds
- Squirrels and monkeys: Adding life to the historical setting
- Butterfly gardens: Natural habitat within fort grounds
COVID-19 Nature Benefits:
- Reduced human interference: Wildlife more visible and active
- Cleaner environment: Less pollution, clearer skies
- Peaceful observation: Better wildlife photography opportunities
- Natural sounds: Bird calls and rustling leaves more audible
Practical Information
Entry and Timings (COVID-19 Era)
Modified Operations:
- Online booking mandatory: Through ASI website
- Timings: Sunrise to sunset (exact times vary by season)
- Closed days: None (open all week)
- Last entry: 45 minutes before sunset
Entry Fees:
- Indians: ₹30
- SAARC/BIMSTEC visitors: ₹30
- Foreigners: ₹300
- Children (up to 15): Free
Accessibility:
- Metro: Pragati Maidan Station (closest)
- Bus routes: Multiple DTC buses
- Parking: Available with enhanced safety protocols
- Wheelchair accessible: Most areas accessible
Nearby Attractions
Combined Heritage Tour
Purana Quila’s location makes it perfect for a heritage circuit:
Within Walking Distance:
- Delhi Zoo: Adjacent to the fort
- National Science Centre: Educational visit
- Humayun’s Tomb: 15 minutes by auto-rickshaw
- India Gate: 20 minutes by metro
COVID-19 Touring Benefits:
- Less crowded attractions: Better experiences everywhere
- Easy transportation: Reduced traffic, faster travel
- Combined tickets: Some monument packages available
- Flexible timing: More time at each location
Local Food and Refreshments
Adapted Food Scene
The area around Purana Quila had adapted well to pandemic requirements:
Food Options:
- Fort canteen: Limited but safe food options
- Nearby restaurants: Enhanced hygiene protocols
- Street vendors: Following safety guidelines
- Packed meals: Available for longer visits
Food Safety Observations:
- Better hygiene standards: Visible improvement in cleanliness
- Packaged options: More sealed food items available
- Contactless service: Digital payments accepted
- Fresh preparation: Emphasis on freshly cooked food
Personal Reflections
What This Experience Taught Me
Visiting Purana Quila during COVID-19 revealed several profound insights:
Historical Appreciation:
- Continuous civilization: Evidence of 3000+ years of habitation
- Architectural evolution: Seeing different periods in one location
- Cultural synthesis: Hindu-Islamic architectural fusion
- Strategic importance: Understanding Delhi’s geographical advantages
Pandemic Learnings:
- Solitude enhances understanding: Quiet spaces promote deeper thinking
- History is patient: Monuments wait for us to truly see them
- Simple pleasures matter: Peaceful boat rides and nature walks
- Safety and exploration coexist: Responsible tourism is possible
Emotional Connection
The empty fort allowed for a more emotional connection to history:
Moments of Reflection:
- Standing where Humayun once stood
- Imagining the bustling court life of centuries past
- Feeling the weight of continuous human presence
- Appreciating the craftsmen who built these structures
Tips for Future Visitors
Making the Most of Your Visit
- Early morning arrival: Best light and peaceful experience
- Carry water and snacks: Limited food options inside
- Wear comfortable shoes: Lot of walking on uneven surfaces
- Bring a camera: Incredible photography opportunities
- Allow 3-4 hours: Don’t rush through this historical treasure
What to Expect:
- Uneven terrain: Some areas require careful walking
- Limited shade: Carry sun protection
- Stairs and climbing: Some physical activity required
- Historical information: Informative plaques throughout
- Peaceful atmosphere: Especially during weekdays
Conclusion
My COVID-19 visit to Purana Quila was a revelation that this “hidden gem” of Delhi deserves much more attention than it typically receives. The enforced solitude allowed me to truly appreciate the layers of history, architectural brilliance, and natural beauty that make this fort special.
Unlike more famous monuments, Purana Quila offers a complete historical experience – from ancient archaeological remains to medieval Islamic architecture, from peaceful nature walks to educational museum visits. The pandemic showed me that sometimes we need fewer distractions to truly connect with our heritage.
For future visitors: Even as normal operations resume, try to visit during off-peak hours or weekdays for a more contemplative experience. This ancient fort has been waiting for over 500 years to tell its story – it deserves visitors who have time to listen.
The combination of historical significance, architectural beauty, natural surroundings, and peaceful atmosphere makes Purana Quila one of Delhi’s most underrated treasures. My pandemic visit reminded me that the best travel experiences often come from slowing down and truly absorbing the places we visit.
Planning your visit? Give Purana Quila the time it deserves. This isn’t just another fort – it’s a journey through 3000 years of Delhi’s continuous civilization, waiting to share its stories with those patient enough to listen.
Incredible India, Incredible History! 🏛️
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